The articles on this page are here to help you understand dog breeders, their ethics and why they choose to do what they do.

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Who is Your Breeder?

Article copyright to: Karen Clark, Versailles Kennels, UK

What is a Breeder?

  • THIS Breeder is one who thirsts for knowledge and never really knows it all, one who wrestles with decisions of conscience, convenience, and commitment.
  • THIS Breeder is one who sacrifices personal interests, finances, time, friendships, fancy furniture, and deep pile carpeting! She gives up the dreams of a long, luxurious cruise in favour of turning that all important Show into this years “vacation”.
  • THIS Breeder goes without sleep (but never without coffee!) in hours spent planning a breeding or watching anxiously over the birth process, and afterwards, over every little sneeze, wiggle or cry. THIS Breeder skips dinner parties because that litter is due or the babies have to be fed at eight. She disregards birth fluids and puts mouth to mouth to save a gasping newborn, literally blowing life into a tiny, helpless creature that may be the culmination of a lifetime of dreams.
  • THIS Breeders lap is a marvelous place where generations of proud and noble champions once snoozed.
  • THIS Breeder’s hands are strong and firm and often soiled, but ever so gentle and sensitive to the thrusts of a puppy’s wet nose.
  • THIS Breeders back and knees are usually arthritic from stooping, bending, and sitting in the birthing box, but are strong enough to enable the breeder to Show the next choice pup to a Championship.
  • THIS Breeder’s shoulders are stooped and often heaped with abuse from competitors, but they’re wide enough to support the weight of a thousand defeats and frustrations.
  • THIS Breeder’s arms are always able to wield a mop, support an armful of puppies, or lend a helping hand to a newcomer.
  • THIS Breeder’s ears are wondrous things, sometimes red (from being talked about) or strangely shaped (from being pressed against a phone receiver), often deaf to criticism, yet always fine-tuned to the whimper of a sick puppy.
  • THIS Breeders eyes are blurred from pedigree research and sometimes blind to her own dog’s faults, but they are ever so keen to the competitions faults and are always searching for the perfect specimen.
  • THIS Breeder’s brain is foggy on faces, but it can recall pedigrees faster than an IBM computer. It’s so full of knowledge that sometimes it blows a fuse, it catalogues thousands of good bones, fine ears, and perfect heads… and buries in the soul the failures and the ones that didn’t turn out.
  • THIS Breeder’s heart is often broken, but it beats strongly with hope everlasting… and it’s always in the right place ! Oh, yes, there are breeders, and then, there are BREEDERS LIKE ME!

  • NEVER buy a puppy or dog without looking at the home of the breeder.
  • ALWAYS check that it is the breeder's home.
  • NEVER meet a breeder to buy a dog from the back of cars on or at ferries, trains, airports, parking lots etc without doing your own research. Use Google and ask everyone you can think of.
  • ALWAYS check that the dog has GENUINE health certificates. Many 'shady' breeders have been known to use photo editing software to forge authenticity.
  • ALWAYS ask about diseases the line may carry. Any breeder who denies you health reports and info you should steer clear of.
  • NEVER take for granted that the breeder you chose is the 'genuine article' without having gotten references from at least 10 reputable sources.
  • ALWAYS see the damn of the pup and NEVER leave a deposit without seeing a puppy. Any breeder who requests a deposit this way is acting illegally.
  • ASK how many times your chosen breeder breeds each bitch (or dog). Check with the Kennel Clubs to verify how many litters have been registered per bitch. Too often it turns out that many show exhibitors are well known puppy farmers (run puppy mills)..
  • A CHAMPION MEANS NOTHING if it's just a Junior title and none are any good without being health tested.
  • REMEMBER BEAUTY IS ONLY SKIN DEEP, a dog may look great on the outside but quite the opposite on the inside. Make sure the "mechanics" are sound!

Versailles Kennels Code of Ethics Award

Award given by www.trainpetdog.com for upstanding ethics in breeding.

award

Ethics are individual to each breeder, but they should remain constant to protect breeds for the future-NO DOG should ever be bred without health testing or for profit alone, the health of your dogs must always come first.



  • Will properly house, feed, water and exercise all dogs under their care and arrange for appropriate veterinary attention if and when required.
  • Will agree without reservation that any veterinary surgeon performing an operation on any of their dogs which alters the natural conformation of the animal, may report such operation to the Kennel Club.
  • Will agree that no healthy puppy will be culled. Puppies which may not conform to the Breed Standard should be placed in suitable homes.
  • Will abide by all aspects of the Animal Welfare Act.
  • Will not create demand for, nor supply, puppies that have been docked illegally.
  • Will agree not to breed from a dog or bitch which could be in any way harmful to the dog or to the breed.
  • Will not allow any of their dogs to roam at large or to cause a nuisance to neighbours or those carrying out official duties.
  • Will ensure that their dogs wear properly tagged collars and will be kept leashed or under effective control when away from home.
  • Will clean up after their dogs in public places or anywhere their dogs are being exhibited.
  • Will only sell dogs where there is a reasonable expectation of a happy and healthy life and will help with the re-homing of a dog if the initial circumstances change.
  • Will supply written details of all dietary requirements and give guidance concerning responsible ownership when placing dogs in a new home.
  • Will ensure that all relevant Kennel Club documents are provided to the new owner when selling or transferring a dog, and will agree, in writing, to forward any relevant documents at the earliest opportunity, if not immediately available.
  • Will not sell any dog to commercial dog wholesalers, retail pet dealers or directly or indirectly allow dogs to be given as a prize or donation in a competition of any kind. Will not sell by sale or auction Kennel Club registration certificates as stand alone items (not accompanying a dog).
  • Will not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed nor falsely advertise dogs nor mislead any person regarding the health or quality of a dog. Ethics cannot be based upon our obligations toward [people], but they are complete and natural only when we feel this Reverence for Life and the desire to have compassion for and to help all creatures insofar as it is in our power. I think that this ethic will become more and more recognized because of its great naturalness and because it is the foundation of a true humanism toward which we must strive if our culture is to become truly ethical.Albert Schweitzer:/li>To truly value your pets , their needs must always come first, the love they require must be placed above any love you want or desire and their rights to a life of unconditional love trust care and commitment is far more important than yours. Never underestimate the intelligence they have or the emotions they feel even when a decision to let them go breaks your heart. They MUST always come first.REMEMBER NO BITCH SHOULD EVER BE BRED FOR AN INCOME, -ONLY BREEDING THAT PROPELS A BREED FOR THE FUTURE SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN AND NO DOGS SHOULD EVER BE BRED THAT IS FROM UNSOUND GENE POOLS WITH DISEASE OR HEREDITARY ILLNESS AND THAT INCLUDES HIP DYSPLASIA, LIVER ,HEART ,BONE DISORDERS AND EYE DISORDERS. EVERY DOG IN YOUR HOME SHOULD BE EYE TESTED ANNUALLY WHETHER BREEDING OR NOT AND FULL HEALTH RECORDS SHOULD BE KEPT OF ALL DOGS BRED BORN RETIRED UNTIL THEY PASS ON.

The Havanese Breed Standard

As per the Kennel Club standard for Havanese:

What is a Breed Standard?
A Breed Standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament and appearance of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function. Absolute soundness is essential. Breeders and judges should at all times be careful to avoid obvious conditions or exaggerations which would be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or soundness of this breed. From time to time certain conditions or exaggerations may be considered to have the potential to affect dogs in some breeds adversely, and judges and breeders are requested to refer to the Kennel Club website for details of any such current issues. If a feature or quality is desirable it should only be present in the right measure

General Appearance
Small, sturdy, slightly longer in body than height at withers. Profusely coated, tail carried in plume over back.

Characteristics
Lively, affectionate and intelligent.

Temperament
Friendly, outgoing.

Head and Skull
Nose to stop and stop to occiput to be equal in length, skull broad, slightly rounded, moderate stop. Muzzle not snipey or blunt, cheeks flat. Nose and lips solid black, although for brown shades the pigment may be brown.

Eyes
Dark, large, almond shaped, gently expression, eye-rims black. In brown shades eyes can be a slightly lighter colour, eye-rims brown.

Ears
Moderately pointed and dropped, set on just above eye level, slightly raised, neither fly away nor framing the cheeks.

Mouth
Jaws strong with perfect regular scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.

Neck
Medium length.

Forequarters
Legs straight, medium bone. Shoulders well laid.

Body
Equal in height from withers to elbow as from elbow to ground. Slightly longer from point of shoulder to point of buttock than height at withers, level top-line, slight rise over loin, well sprung ribs, with good tuck-up.

Hindquarters
Medium boned, moderate angulation.

Feet
Small, tight, hare foot.

Tail
Set high, carried over the back; profusely feathered with long silky hair.

Gait/Movement
Free with a springy step, legs moving parallel also the line of travel.

Coat
Soft, silky, wavy or slightly curled, full coated with an undercoat.

Colour
Any colour or combination of colours permissible.

Size
Ideal height 23-28cm (9-11 inches).

Faults
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Note
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

What is a Show Dog & Show Etiquette?

Article copyright by: Karen Clark, Versailles Kennels, UK

What is a Show Dog?

Show dog is not a variety, kind, type, or breed of dog; neither is it a dog trained for a specific skill, as in assistance dog or police dog; rather, show dog refers to any dog entered into a dog show.They come in all shapes and sizes and the best way to verify QUALITY is to get hold of a copy of the BRS available from the KC which gives information on how many litters each breeder is having, clearly there are some breeders who are seen at shows with MANY dogs this often detracts from quality as no one can produce huge amounts of top quality puppies this is NOT how genetics works.Some even use several kennel names in an odd attempt to fool potential buyers into thinking they have just one or two litters per year….. To find a quality breeder ALWAYS google their names.

What does CH mean?

CH denotes Champion which is a simple scoring system for dogs that are placed in the top 3 for show purposes, it DOES NOT mean that dog is better than one without a CH, many shows are won by dogs entering classes with no other dog. A CH that is gained then the dog is health verified means so much more. A Champion should only be judged on its health status and breed conformation not just on CH especially in Breeds like Havanese In countries like Ireland who are dominated by just two prolific breeders.

Havanese Breeders based in Ireland we recommend:

Julie and Paul Connolly who own Ch, CIB Indio Vom Kapflesberg At Snazzipaws (An Ch 07, 08, 09, 10, CW 06, 07, 09, EW 09)

Roy & Lesley Ann Blevins based in Northern Ireland.

Of course we too exhibit the very best dogs we can In Ireland with many successes with Triple CH Multi CAC CACIB BOB Windfalls Lightning Thief at Versailles and afew other fully health tested Havanese and Bolognese. Our own Euro Bolo male who came 2nd in only his first ever show was Dolcissimo Rocco also known as the Wonderful Caesar. His daughter took best Female Euro puppy in Bolognese Versailles Sophia Cici.

Show Etiquette
(How an exhibitor SHOULD behave-not all do )

PARTICIPANT
To develop leadership, initiative, and responsibility. To develop self-confidence and patience. To learn show procedures, rules, and etiquette as a dog handler. To develop high standards of sportsmanship when dealing with judges, competitors, and the public. To learn about the positive experience of dog ownership and of presenting the dog in the show ring. To learn how to win and how to lose gracefully.

SHOWMANSHIP PHILOSOPHY
Showmanship is concerned with how well the dog is shown by the handler. The emphasis is on the handler’s presentation of the dog standing still and in motion. The handler must convey knowledge and understanding of the dog’s breed. The handler should present the dog according to the chosen single breed standard. The handler and dog appear to be part of a team. They work well together, move fluidly, and give an overall picture of being one unit. If a dog moves out of place or makes an error, a good handler is aware of this. The handler quickly and efficiently adjusts for the fault and resumes his/her presentation of the dog.

APPEARANCE OF THE HANDLER
The handler should appear neat and well groomed. The entire picture of the dog and handler should be one of symmetry and be appealing to the judge. Girls must wear dresses, culottes, skirts (of knee length or longer), or dress pants. Tops must maintain an appropriate neckline and not show any skin at the lower edge. Boys must wear dress pants or slacks, and dress shirts. Jacket and tie are optional. Recommended shoes include tennis shoes or soft-soled shoes. Clothing color should complement the dog, but not necessarily match the dog. Blue jeans are not considered appropriate attire for any handler. Handlers must not wear western boots, high heels, sandals, or other unsafe footwear. Inappropriate attire includes hat, gloves, clothing with commercial advertising, or jewelry that might disturb other competitors or dogs. Sunglasses, indoors or outdoors, are not considered appropriate. Clothing should not distract, limit, or hinder the judge’s view of the team. Handlers are to use good judgment concerning any makeup or accessories, and in styling hair away from their face.

ATTITUDE OF THE HANDLER
The handler must be a good sport in the ring and outside the ring. He/she must exhibit a positive attitude toward other exhibitors as well as the judge. Courtesy to the judge and the other handlers is important. Handlers must be alert and attentive to what is going on in the ring, as well as to their dog, and its behavior. Smoothness and continual control of the dog is mandatory. Handlers should listen to the judge’s directions. If a handler is unable to hear what the judge says for directions, he/she should ask the judge to please repeat what was said. Handlers should not stare at the judge with an exaggerated smile. Staring at the judge makes most judges uneasy, and the exhibitor gains no advantage. Handlers need to be aware of the judge’s presence at all times and should occasionally make brief eye contact with the judge. It is important for a handler to convey that he/she is enjoying showing his/her dog. Smiling is good, but it should not be overbearing or have the appearance of insincerity. Double handling is not allowed. There should be no help from outside the ring to coach a handler or distract a dog.

APPEARANCE OF THE DOG
The dog should be well groomed with clean, matt free hair, toenails cut to the proper length, teeth cleaned, and void of fleas and ticks. Its eyes should be clear, and its coat free of tear stains. Its ears should be clean with no excess earwax or dirt. Whiskers and hair on the legs, feet, and ears can be trimmed if it is appropriate. Not all dog breeds should be trimmed and void of whiskers. Dogs should be groomed before the competition without the use of dyes, talc powder, or other cosmetics. Dogs should not wear scarves or have painted nails. Bows or bands should be worn only by appropriate breeds.

SHOW RING PROCEDURES

Armbands should be worn on the left arm with the number visible to the judge. Before judging begins, the procedure for entering the ring should be made known. The procedure used is entirely at the judge’s discretion; he/she may call handlers in as a group or individually. Judging will begin when the handler and dog enter the ring. The handler should set up (stack) the dog quietly and quickly, ideally leaving three to four feet between them and the dog and handler directly in front of them. Do not crowd. The judge needs room to walk between dogs if he/she prefers. To stack a dog, it is best to set up the dog’s front end first. The handler should lift a front foot if necessary by grasping the leg at the elbow. Position the rear legs by grasping the stifle or hock to place the feet. Should matting be provided, the dog should be stacked near the inside edge of the mat. Allow room for the judge to walk between the dog and the ring fence. Keep moving forward and re-stacking the dog as the dogs in front are individually gaited and moved to the end of the line. When a class is very large, the judge may divide it and tell some handlers to relax their dogs. Relaxing does not mean not paying attention. While relaxing, it is not necessary to stack your dog or keep it alert at all times. Be alert for the judge to call your group back again. Bait (treats) and/or toys are allowed, and when used properly, capture and hold the dog’s attention. These should be used without distracting other exhibitors or the judge. Talking to the dog is permissible providing discretion is used. For breeds normally examined on the table at conformation shows, the handler should follow the judge’s instructions about when to table the dog. Unless indicated otherwise, the handler should place the dog on the table while the preceding dog is being gaited. Stack the dog facing the judge, with the front feet approximately one inch away from the edge of table. During the individual exam, the judge will normally ask the exhibitor to “show the bite” (teeth). To show the bite, gently pull up the lips to reveal the bite of the dog with the mouth closed, keeping the leash out of the way. Premolars may be shown by raising the flews on each side of the dog’s mouth. If the breed standard indicates the necessity to count teeth, the mouth should be opened wide enough to do so. If required, the mouth should be opened to display the color of the gums or tongue. As the judge begins to examine the dog’s front, the handler should move out of the way. The handler needs to adjust his/her position as needed during the exam, while keeping control of the dog. Should a judge disturb the coat, or misplace a foot, the handler should reposition the coat or foot.

GAITING
Gaiting means to move the dog in the pattern requested by the judge. Movement should be smooth, in a straight line, and at the correct speed according to the dog’s size and breed standard. The acceptable gait is a controlled trot. Remember, the speed for the “pattern” may be different than for the “go around.” Handlers should make every effort to keep their dog between themselves and the judge. It is permissible for a handler to momentarily block the judge’s view of the dog when making turns in gaiting patterns. If matting is provided, keep the dog centered on it while gaiting. Handlers should have the proper lead and lead placement when moving their dog. Adjust the lead to the right length by gathering the excess lead in the hand closest to the dog so that no part of the lead is dangling while gaiting. Handlers and dogs should move in unison with each other and look like a well-trained team. Allow the dog to move freely and naturally. At the beginning of the individual gaiting pattern, a courtesy turn is optional. A properly executed courtesy turn will allow the handler to align with the judge and the path to be taken. This small turn in front of the judge is also called honoring the judge. Handlers should maintain good posture when moving their dog. Handlers should constantly be aware of their dog, the route, and the judge’s position in the ring. It is not necessary to look at the judge and smile all the time. Occasional quick glances and a smile at the judge will indicate that

GAITING PATTERNS
Patterns are a systematic way of moving the dog around the ring. The most common patterns are: the Go Around, the Triangle and Reverse Triangle, the L, the T, the Diagonal, the Down and Back Alone, and the Down and Back with Another Handler. The judge will instruct exhibitors about the pattern that he/she wants completed. The pattern is to be consistent within the class. The pattern is at the discretion of the judge, but it is recommended that initially the Triangle and the Down and Back be used for the junior class. More difficult patterns may be used if the competition warrants.

THE GO AROUND
The handler moves the dog around the ring, usually in a counterclockwise direction. Allow the dog to gait freely, with no jerking of the dog’s neck by the handler. When moving the dog in an “all go around,” the handler should make certain to leave plenty of room between his/her dog and the dog ahead. It is permissible to pass a dog that has stopped moving, but space should be left in the line for this dog when the gaiting is completed. Dogs should return to the original order as when entering the ring. The handler should attempt to keep the dog moving at a suitable speed. If the dog in front is moving slowly and it is difficult to gait at the correct speed, the handler should hold back and make space. Then, when it is the handler’s turn to gait in front of the judge, there will be enough room to move.

THE TRIANGLE
The handler and dog move to the first corner, turning toward the second corner. The second corner may be turned or the handler may want to make a small smooth circle and proceed directly back to the judge on the diagonal. The purpose of the circle is to allow control of the speed and alignment of the dog on the diagonal. Either method should be executed with fluid motion.

THE REVERSE TRIANGLE
The same as a triangle but reversed.

THE DOWN AND BACK
The handler moves the dog straight across to the opposite side of the ring. When reaching the far side, he/she turns smoothly and proceeds back to the starting position. The handler should keep the dog between the handler and the judge.

STAND AFTER GAIT
At the end of the individual gaiting pattern, when the handler gets within a few feet from the judge, the handler should bait and present the dog. The dog should be presented in a natural stance without holding the head or tail. The handler should check to make sure the dog is stacked properly, first in the front, then in the rear. If a leg is out of position, the handler should reposition that leg. The handler should move smoothly and quickly, and present the dog to the judge to show proper expression. The ideal free stack, accomplished by adjusting the dog’s position using only the leash, bait, or voice commands, should be given preference.

LINING UP AND FACING THE JUDGE
Sometimes the judge will have handlers stack the dogs in a group and face the judge as he/she stands in the center of the ring. If the judge passes in front of a dog, the handler needs to make sure that the dog remains stacked as the handler moves to the other side of the dog. The handler needs to make certain that he/she does not block the judge’s view of the dog. If the judge comes back, the handler should do the same thing in reverse. The handler should never step over the dog, for that may cause the dog to move.

HANDLING SUGGESTIONS

A handler needs time and practice to learn to show his/her dog to its best advantage. The handler should practice frequently in a variety of locations so both the dog and handler are comfortable in the show ring with other dogs and handlers. Stacking and gaiting are distinctive to each breed. The handler’s responsibility is to learn how his/her breed should be shown in a conformation ring. Overweight or underweight dogs may not make the best impression on a judge, so a handler should adjust the dog’s food intake and exercise over a period of time to help the dog achieve a desirable weight. Unnecessary handler movements detract from the dog and the picture that the handler is trying to project to the judge. The handler should know where the judge is at all times, and be certain not to block the judge’s view of the dog. Be alert, since the judge may use hand motions instead of a voice request. A handler should always maintain good sportsmanship in and out of the ring. A handler should not try to block out another dog from the judge’s view. A handler should always give adequate space between themselves and the dog in front of them. Fellow handlers should allow each other plenty of space to show their dogs without feeling crowded. Conversation in the ring should be limited only to the judge, and it should be minimal. Chitchat with other exhibitors or spectators should not take place while exhibiting.

GUIDELINES FOR JUDGES

The actual show routine of judging will vary according to the judge, the number of handlers, the size of the ring, ring conditions, weather, and time of day. However, judges should strive to evaluate competitors in an appropriate and consistent manner. The judge may want to take into consideration the age of the dog when evaluating the condition of the teeth and the movement of an older dog. It is very important to use only those procedures and patterns of gaiting commonly used in regular dog show classes. If the judge chooses to use two handlers in a down and back pattern, the judge must specify to the handlers if they should gait the dogs together, at the slower dog’s gait, or at each dog’s proper gait. The judge should be aware of the different breeds he/she will see in the ring and the particular ways in which these breeds are normally handled. The examination table should only be used for breeds that are normally shown on a table. Although the procedure for completing the examination should resemble that of breed judging, examination of the dogs may be done rapidly because the conformation of the dog is of no concern. Judges in each level should be consistent in the initial examination, use the same gaiting pattern and procedural requests, and allow each handler the same amount of time. The Triangle and the Down and Back gaiting patterns are recommended to be used initially for the junior class. A judge should not confuse the ability of a handler to take directions with the handler’s ability to handle his/her dog. Some freedom of expression and expertise should be allowed. To have all exhibitors handle in an identical manner defeats the basic premise of showmanship. Judges should limit their conversation with the handlers during competition to that which is absolutely necessary.
Questions may be used only as a method for breaking ties in a run-off.

Judges should examine and evaluate the handler in four basic areas:
1. Proper breed presentation and gait.
2. Skill in presenting the dog.
3. Execution of ring procedure.
4. Appearance and conduct of both dog and handler.

The general rule in evaluating a handler’s capabilities is ECONOMY OF MOTION. Handlers who use exaggerated motions and gestures in any phase of their presentation of the dog should be faulted. Dogs should be presented in a quiet and efficient manner. The handler should be able to keep the dog’s attention without dramatic or unnatural movements.

Judges are judging the handler, but time should be spent looking at the dog to gain insight as to how well it is being handled.
1. Is the dog responsive to the handler? Do they work as a team?
2. Does the dog appear posed or interested at all times?
3. Is the dog under control?
4. Is the dog moved correctly to the best of its ability?
5. Are the dog’s main faults being minimized?
6. Do both the dog and handler appear relaxed?
7. Is the dog presented with minimum effort?

The judge shall evaluate the ability of the handler to follow directions, use space wisely, and execute the requested gaiting patterns. Handlers should appear ring- wise, be alert to the judging progression, and be prepared for changes in the routine. The judge should be aware of the appearance of both the handler and the dog. The handler should be suitably dressed for the occasion, wearing clothing that will not hinder or detract from the presentation of the dog. The dog should be groomed and trimmed in the manner associated with the breed. Excessive grooming of the dog in the ring to gain the judge’s attention is inappropriate and should be faulted accordingly. The judge shall evaluate the general conduct of the handler in the ring. The handler should appear prepared, confident, businesslike, and attentive. Handlers should be courteous to both the judge and their fellow exhibitors. Handlers are expected to handle their dogs without distracting the dogs of other competitors. A handler who crowds or disturbs other dogs should be faulted.

What to do if you've bought an ill pet

Article copied with permission from: http://paag.org.uk/buying-a-pet/report/

Feel free to use the links on this page to report any problems you have had purchasing any pet.
This article is for your information and a way to get help. Please note that Versailles Kennels has no connection to PAAG in this capacity, but we would be happy to guide you in the right direction to get the help you need.


What to do if you’ve bought an ill pet:

Sadly you are not alone and many other animal lovers have faced the trauma of having to head to a vet just hours or days after buying a new pet from a classified advert.

It is important to keep a detailed record of your pet’s illnesses with dates and times of when they occurred. Ensure you obtain a full veterinary report. Similarly take regular photos and if possible video footage that illustrate your animal’s condition. These records may be essential to show that your pet was ill when you bought it. If you have other pets ensure they are kept separate from your new animal until it is given a clean bill of health.

If you have bought a poorly pet from a person or shop you are covered by the Sale of Goods Act 1979. Live animals are classified as “goods”, so this Act is the best one which covers your rights as a consumer. It’s important to remember that while you may have an emotional attachment to your pet, an unscrupulous breeder will not – so use this consumer legislation to your advantage.

Anyone who has already purchased a sick puppy is advised to contact Consumer Direct on 08454 040506 or by visit their website.

Tell us about your experience.

In order to assess the true extent of unethical or misleading pet advertising PAAG would like to hear from people who have had a bad experience buying a pet from a classified advert. Please contact us by email with details of your experiences.
email us at:
admin@paag.org.uk

Please try to include as much of the information below in your email as possible. We know there are a lot of questions, but it helps if we know as much as possible about your situation.

PAAG would like to know of any inappropriate classified adverts both online and in print but unfortunately is not in a position to take action in every individual case. We would advise members of the public to report any advert they are concerned about to the dog legislation officer at their local police station.

About you

• Your name
• Your email
• Your phone number
• Would you be happy to be contacted by PAAG?

About your pet

• Animal type
• Animal name
• Animal’s age when bought
• Animal’s physical condition when bought
• Animal’s age at death (if applicable)

About the advert

• Did you see an advert for your pet?
• If so, where?
• What did the advert say or show?
• Did the newspaper/website/directory print any advice about choosing or caring for a pet?

About the sale

• Date of purchase:
• Venue of purchase
• Vendor’s name
• Vendor’s address
• Did you buy the pet at your first meeting?
• Did the vendor give you any health or vaccination records for the pet?

About your pet’s illness

• How long after buying the pet did it first become ill?
• Ailments suffered by pet, (include mental symptoms if applicable):
• Action taken by owner (eg took pet to vet, took pet back to vendor etc)
• Veterinary diagnosis:
• Did the pet display any aggression towards people or other pets?

About your actions

• Did you try to return your pet to vendor when you found it was ill?
• If yes, what was their response?
• If your pet died, did you take any legal action against the vendor?
• If yes, what has happened to date?
• Has the vendor been helpful in his/her dealings with you?



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